Check the Ego

High tide yet again. I didn't surf the previous day because I got another flat on the way there. The 710 is a freeway you ought to avoid if you can. There is a ton of debris all over, not sure what it is.

Anyway, high tide peaked today (Sunday) at around 8am or so. What a string of bad luck with the tides. I wasn't sure if the waves would come through, but was assured they were rolling through with pretty good shape yesterday.

There were some head high waves every now and then. I took out the 7'0 and I have to say that the waves might have been too large for me at first. I was able to paddle out with no problems, but paddling into waves, that was a problem. I spent the first 30 minutes just keeping up with the current (now pushing us south) and trying every now and then for a wave. I didn't start off fast enough or was in the right place that by the time I was coming close to planing, I was looking down a straight wall. Well, not wanting to get pounded for very little benefit, I'd push the nose down and turn around.

After awhile, I started to paddle a bit harder to catch some waves and finally caught one with some decent shape. Other than that wave and the wave in, the wave count for the day was just 2. I have to charge a few more waves next weekend to make up for this. It's definitely the start of the winter swells.

Water is still warm at around the mid 60's.
Sun was shining.
Wind was calm.
Crowds were thin, but got thicker when it was time to leave.
Dolphins sighted.