Sunday, September 24, 2006

Still warm!

I didn't get to surf last week because traffic prevented me from getting my car back from the dealership in time and was too tired from a nice wedding on Saturday night for a Sunday morning run. Another nice wedding last night prevented me from going out this morning. Well, it didn't really stop me, but coming back in time for a one hour nap before heading out again, is clearly not enough for me.

I did go out yesterday and the water was still very warm! When I got out of the water, there was that bit of chill in the air with a slight offshore breeze going on. The breeze made me think that it would be a good idea to wear a full suit, what a mistake! I was burning up in that suit.

The waves were bowling early, a combination of the swell and the low tide. The waves were zippy early on and the crowds were sort of thinning out from 2 weeks ago. Most of the waves were lefts and that's the way I went. There was a slight drift going north, but wasn't bad at all.

The funnest wave was a right. I dropped in a little late, turned right as soon as I stood up, and away I went. I should have tried to crouch and get closer to the wave face to see if I could have got covered. That's not instinctive for me going front side. Going backside, I just pig dog it and tuck in. Not to say I get covered a lot and the few times I have been covered, ended with me in the wash. No spectacular wipeouts either yesterday.

Next week, a trip down south to either Torrey Pines or Carlsbad. Can't wait!

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Clerks II - July 21, 2006