Fun and Not As Fun
Saturday was pretty good. My biggest regret was not waking up earlier and getting out to catch more waves when it was this good. Then again, I am dead tired from commuting to the new job. It's over an hour one way.
The water has gotten cold... brrr... but still doable in a vest and board shorts. The waves were coming in long lulls, but when they came, there were corners to be had. I caught a bunch of waves on my 7'11, all going right. I've been so focused on going right that I don't do lefts too well any more. Lefts used to be all I did and it came naturally. Probably cause I used to bail on waves a lot more and falling backward is sort of what going lefts felt like to me. So, I got used to going left and did pretty well. I figured going front side is the way most people go, so I worked on going rights.
Most everyone was going left this weekend, with me being the rebel, waiting for a good right to come along. I was catching them pretty consistently and staying high on the wave so I can practice roller coasting as well. The next thing I have to work on are harder cut backs. I don't change direction too well. If I go right, I go right. I might twitch a little to the left to start the roller coaster effect, but then go right again. A couple of times, it would have been nice to cut back a little harder to pick up a little more speed to get past a section, but what can you do? It's just part of the learning and development process.
At one point, I was literally surrounded by people that I couldn't catch anything without either running someone over in the inside section or bump boards with someone to the right or left of me. They trapped me! Good thing a set came in to get rid of them. The usual drift was turned on going north. And since most waves were lefts, the people who caught waves and were too lazy to fight the current usually ended up 50 yards to the north of me, leaving me to pick off the rights that came in every now and then.
Sunday was pretty walled up. Same board, but I started taking lefts. Felt weird. I think I caught one right the whole day and it was a short ride before the whole wave closed shop. Still had fun and the crowd wasn't as thick as on Saturday. Then again, if I have to deal with a few more people, but have better waves, I think I'm willing to run some people over, good vibes be damned!
Can't surf next weekend. Making a road trip with some friends for a bachelor party. Little surprise where that road trip is going to be. At least there won't be much of a swell in the water later on this week, so I probably won't be missing much.
The water has gotten cold... brrr... but still doable in a vest and board shorts. The waves were coming in long lulls, but when they came, there were corners to be had. I caught a bunch of waves on my 7'11, all going right. I've been so focused on going right that I don't do lefts too well any more. Lefts used to be all I did and it came naturally. Probably cause I used to bail on waves a lot more and falling backward is sort of what going lefts felt like to me. So, I got used to going left and did pretty well. I figured going front side is the way most people go, so I worked on going rights.
Most everyone was going left this weekend, with me being the rebel, waiting for a good right to come along. I was catching them pretty consistently and staying high on the wave so I can practice roller coasting as well. The next thing I have to work on are harder cut backs. I don't change direction too well. If I go right, I go right. I might twitch a little to the left to start the roller coaster effect, but then go right again. A couple of times, it would have been nice to cut back a little harder to pick up a little more speed to get past a section, but what can you do? It's just part of the learning and development process.
At one point, I was literally surrounded by people that I couldn't catch anything without either running someone over in the inside section or bump boards with someone to the right or left of me. They trapped me! Good thing a set came in to get rid of them. The usual drift was turned on going north. And since most waves were lefts, the people who caught waves and were too lazy to fight the current usually ended up 50 yards to the north of me, leaving me to pick off the rights that came in every now and then.
Sunday was pretty walled up. Same board, but I started taking lefts. Felt weird. I think I caught one right the whole day and it was a short ride before the whole wave closed shop. Still had fun and the crowd wasn't as thick as on Saturday. Then again, if I have to deal with a few more people, but have better waves, I think I'm willing to run some people over, good vibes be damned!
Can't surf next weekend. Making a road trip with some friends for a bachelor party. Little surprise where that road trip is going to be. At least there won't be much of a swell in the water later on this week, so I probably won't be missing much.
posted by Dan at 12:51 PM
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