Parts Unknown and Known
Last Wednesday, I headed up the coast to some place south of Zuma. Zuma was blown out and I got there a little later than I normally hit the water. The beach is pretty secluded and I'd post the name if I actually knew what it was. There's just a small number of parking spots on the street devoted to the break and from there, you walk down a bunch of steps to hit the beach. It's a point break with lots of rocks. On the inside section, it's really hairy cause there are huge boulders submerged that you can't see, but can feel once you step on them.
I didn't catch too many waves cause the tide was going out and the rocks were freaking me out too much for me to enjoy it. I bailed as soon as possible on the few waves I did catch. The sets were rolling in pretty consistently at first and were about head high. They seemed mellow till they hit the inside and just start bowling over. There was only two other guys in the water and only one guy near where we were surfing by the point. He was nice enough to give me the low down on where it breaks and during what periods of the day. He said that he caught about 40 waves that day and I don't doubt it. The other guy was farther south at another peak, though I hardly saw him catch anything.
I took out the same 7'3 board the next day to my blown out home break where I met up with a friend who was driving from far, far away. We paddled out to some waist high waves, that were still pretty fun. I got dialed into that board rather fast and find it pretty fun. It's pretty easy to catch waves on that board, but it doesn't have a rocker at all. It might as well be a skim board by how flat it is on the bottom.
The weekend was a non-factor. I didn't paddle out either day, Saturday cause of a graduation I attended and today cause my lip is jacked from surfing 5 1/2 hours at San O last week without enough sun protection. Don't be dumb like me, get some sunblock on the lips and the rest of your exposed body. It's not a fun thing and I plan on seeing a doctor about it tomorrow. At least I had a really good day last week at San O. Guess it's my price for catching some of the best waves of the year.
To all those commenting, thank you very much. I don't always check my own site so I reply really late. I'll answer any questions you might have and at some point, I guess I'll start posting up pics.
I didn't catch too many waves cause the tide was going out and the rocks were freaking me out too much for me to enjoy it. I bailed as soon as possible on the few waves I did catch. The sets were rolling in pretty consistently at first and were about head high. They seemed mellow till they hit the inside and just start bowling over. There was only two other guys in the water and only one guy near where we were surfing by the point. He was nice enough to give me the low down on where it breaks and during what periods of the day. He said that he caught about 40 waves that day and I don't doubt it. The other guy was farther south at another peak, though I hardly saw him catch anything.
I took out the same 7'3 board the next day to my blown out home break where I met up with a friend who was driving from far, far away. We paddled out to some waist high waves, that were still pretty fun. I got dialed into that board rather fast and find it pretty fun. It's pretty easy to catch waves on that board, but it doesn't have a rocker at all. It might as well be a skim board by how flat it is on the bottom.
The weekend was a non-factor. I didn't paddle out either day, Saturday cause of a graduation I attended and today cause my lip is jacked from surfing 5 1/2 hours at San O last week without enough sun protection. Don't be dumb like me, get some sunblock on the lips and the rest of your exposed body. It's not a fun thing and I plan on seeing a doctor about it tomorrow. At least I had a really good day last week at San O. Guess it's my price for catching some of the best waves of the year.
To all those commenting, thank you very much. I don't always check my own site so I reply really late. I'll answer any questions you might have and at some point, I guess I'll start posting up pics.
posted by Dan at 9:24 PM
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