Crumbs on Saturday, Mush on Sunday
Water on Saturday was cleaner than last week. It was a dirty green rather than a brownish red. The winds kicked up early and the water had quite a bit of texture to it all. The only waves to catch were ones that already broke and you just caught it in order to get enough speed to perhaps make the shoulder. I had fun, but am sure it would have been a better day for my 9'2. I only brought out a shorter board cause there was supposed to be a swell.
Sunday saw a bright sunny day when I got there only to see the sun disappear behind the clouds soon after getting into the water. There was no wind, so the conditions were glassy, but at the same time, size backed down quite a bit. I brought the same board cause I stayed out in OC for the night. I caught one really nice wave that I rode all the way to shore. It was a right and I worked it enough to get into the inside section. Once I saw a wall forming up, instead of trying to pump the board into a higher position on the wave, I bailed out cause I was in 3 ft. of water. Should have just tried to get back up to the top. Oh well. Still get freaked out about the idea of getting slammed into the sand.
One thing that I've been trying to work on was popping up on my board more towards the tail end rather than right in the middle. In order to help me work on that, I recently put a traction pad on my 7'11. Most of the times I popped up, my rear foot was towards the front end of the traction pad. Not too bad, cause after making the first turn, I'd move forward a bit in order to catch some speed. That will change once I get to test it out on bigger waves. I have another traction pad for the 7'0, a board I really have to get used to surfing from the back of the board.
I started surfing with my feet towards the front from that one good day in October so many years back. I had to surf up front to make sure the board would slide down the wave consistently. It's been a bad habit ever since. Every now and then, I'd pop up on the tail of a board and be shocked I'm still going. I've even done a really bad pop up on the 7'0 where both of my feet were on the tail and I'd be so shocked, I'd fall after I'm standing up.
On the big log, I doubt I'll ever get to the tail end cause by the time I get there, the ride will be over. Have to move my feet faster or something.
This coming week boasts another swell. I can only hope that it will be something more significant than what we've been seeing the last few months.
Pray 4 Surf!
Sunday saw a bright sunny day when I got there only to see the sun disappear behind the clouds soon after getting into the water. There was no wind, so the conditions were glassy, but at the same time, size backed down quite a bit. I brought the same board cause I stayed out in OC for the night. I caught one really nice wave that I rode all the way to shore. It was a right and I worked it enough to get into the inside section. Once I saw a wall forming up, instead of trying to pump the board into a higher position on the wave, I bailed out cause I was in 3 ft. of water. Should have just tried to get back up to the top. Oh well. Still get freaked out about the idea of getting slammed into the sand.
One thing that I've been trying to work on was popping up on my board more towards the tail end rather than right in the middle. In order to help me work on that, I recently put a traction pad on my 7'11. Most of the times I popped up, my rear foot was towards the front end of the traction pad. Not too bad, cause after making the first turn, I'd move forward a bit in order to catch some speed. That will change once I get to test it out on bigger waves. I have another traction pad for the 7'0, a board I really have to get used to surfing from the back of the board.
I started surfing with my feet towards the front from that one good day in October so many years back. I had to surf up front to make sure the board would slide down the wave consistently. It's been a bad habit ever since. Every now and then, I'd pop up on the tail of a board and be shocked I'm still going. I've even done a really bad pop up on the 7'0 where both of my feet were on the tail and I'd be so shocked, I'd fall after I'm standing up.
On the big log, I doubt I'll ever get to the tail end cause by the time I get there, the ride will be over. Have to move my feet faster or something.
This coming week boasts another swell. I can only hope that it will be something more significant than what we've been seeing the last few months.
Pray 4 Surf!
posted by Dan at 11:16 AM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home