Monday, April 03, 2006

Nose drip

Surfer's nose. I know of other people who have it, but I don't know if anyone else has had as embarassing a situation happen to them like I had yesterday. I was getting a girl's email address when I bent down and my nose decided to drain right then and there. The girl ignored it and I tucked my tail between my legs and left asap. Does this happen to anyone else or is it just me and my friends? It doesn't just drip out... it gushes. Don't get me wrong, when it does happen, it feels great, but that's either A.) while still in the parking lot of the beach or B.) in the privacy of my own home.

What caused the surfer's nose? A great session yesterday. I brought out the 9'2 cause the waves haven't been all that big these days. Friday was pretty small and I heard Saturday was smaller. It didn't matter to me cause I've lost a little bit of nerve on the overhead waves these days.

When I got out, the waves were coming in pretty consistently in the waist high range. Every now and then, a chest high wave would sneak through. There weren't too many people out at the home break, probably cause of the recent rainfalls.

First wave, I popped up and had my front foot slip. I'm not used to surfing without booties and it completely threw me off. In fact, I caught a few waves, but didn't do much with them. I was kooking out most of the time. It wasn't until I switched boards with my friend that I get in tune with things. He has a shorter board, a 7'0 egg shaped board. It's a drastic difference, but I was able to catch a wave, pop up, do one turn before the wave fizzled. Couldn't really catch any other waves cause I'm not used to surfing a 7'0 board anymore and the waves were really small.

After I got back on my own board, that's when the fun started. I popped up with very few issues. Right placement of the feet, balanced weight, knees slightly bent, etc. I started catching more and more waves. The wave of the day was a right, which started off small. I paddled, caught the wave, went straight, looked back and felt the board slow down. I made a slight bottom turn and that's when the fun started. The wave caught up to me and I was back towards the top. I could see the wave wall just rising up and normally I'd start to bail out on the wave, fearing I'd get crushed by the lip. I just kept it there and started to catch a lot of speed. I started zooming down the line before it petered out on the inside. I turned back to the curl, but it was clearly dead. I paddled out and one of the locals said with a smile, "I guess you can go home now." I wish I could have caught a few more like that one. I caught another wave which started off the same way, but hit a chop and went tumbling. It's okay, cause I got the wave of the day.

Thus, the surfer's nose event, though embarassing, was well deserved and a small price to pay for that great ride.

2 Comments:

Blogger dave rich said...

haha I too get nose drip. I cannot figure out if its like pent up seawater or actual sinus drainage. Im not sure what causes it, but I know what your talking about. I ALWAYS get it in public.

11:13 AM  
Blogger Dan said...

Yeah, but in front of a girl? Man, talk about embarassed. I think I'll refrain from going to that place for a long, long while! Another surfer would have known, but civilians? They just look at your funny

8:13 PM  

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Clerks II - July 21, 2006