Walled

It's been awhile since I've posted anything about the surfing. This might be because I have less time than usual to surf. I work on Sunday nights now and Saturday mornings are devoted to finding a business location.

I have been surfing though, with very little progress until recently. Last Sunday, the surf was overhead, or it was to me. I caught a couple of waves before I got too tired to fight the current and started worrying about running people over. The crowd was pretty thick last Sunday because of the big surf. Some guy made a comment about watching both ways before paddling for a wave or I could kill someone. Truth is, I started paddling for that wave first and pulled off when I heard the whistling. I understand the localism that happens at some beaches. Even my friend got flack for catching a wave when the guy back door snaked him. What a load of crap!

This past Saturday, I took out the 7'0", the one that busted my tooth. I caught a beautiful left, rollercoasting up and down the wave and felt good on it. I think I bought that board 2 years too soon. I feel more comfortable on it than ever before. There wasn't much other surf to rave about cause the tide came up fast. Then some longboarders came out and just started taking each wave. Damn them!