Point Break

Bodhi and his gang had it right in that movie, just follow the surf around the world for that Endless Summer. Of course, robbing banks is probably not the best way to do it, but not everyone is a free surfer and can afford to just surf the best waves every day for a living.

Before I go on my rant, just have to say that the 9'2" makes small days into fun days like yesterday at the home break. Can't really complain about the size of the waves too much since I was able to catch a fair amount. A little more size would have been nice, but every ride I did get still filled me with "stoke."

My dad once asked me, "what do you want to do?" He meant this in a fatherly way, worried about my career aspirations, wondering if I even had any. "Doesn't matter about the job much, I just need to be close to the waves." He got a good chuckle out of it.

Different people (those who don't surf) have asked me over the past few years why I enjoy surfing so much. There's never a really good answer that they are satisfied with. How do you explain the "stoke?"

For me, it's like this. Besides the "stoke," being out in the ocean gives me a chance to come to grips with what's really important and what's not. Paddling through the impact zone on big days are best when things aren't going super well. It makes me concentrate on just paddling and getting past the numerous waves crashing on me. I forget about what was troubling me before and just stick to the situation at hand.

After getting out, I reflect on just being able to take a deep breath, without worrying about ducking (or turtling) through a wave. I can just sit on my board, take in the view and relax. All my cares and worries are washed away with the whitewater pounding the sand. I wait until I find a wave that I think I can catch, get up, and try to get the "stoke." Of course, that's the ideal situation, where you catch a wave and ride, but sometimes, I just wipe out because I'm still a noob (at times). It's okay though, cause if I had to fight through that many waves, there's bound to be another one to try for.

Even on smaller days (waist to chest high), it's all about the "stoke." It's a relatively easier paddle to the outside and each successful ride makes me forget about my worries. I can concentrate on my form, making sure I pop correctly, shuffle my feet when necessary, and make the most out of each ride.

I can totally remember the October of 2003, a Sunday, when it just got better and better as the morning transitioned into early afternoon, the waves cleaned up. There were so many peaks out there that there wasn't any disputes over waves. In fact, most of the morning crew left around 9 am, right when it started to get good. I caught whatever I wanted and kept telling myself, "that was the best wave I've ever ridden," after each wave. Gliding along frontside, I could see the wave forming in front of me, glassy, emerald green, so clear I could see the sand passing by. Every wave was like that. There wasn't a bad wave out there. I had to leave by noon in order to get a project done, but I've always mentioned that it was the single best day I've ever had at surfing.

Anyway, I think dolphins had it right when they migrated to the sea. They surf when they have a chance, get to have sushi morning, noon, and night. I doubt there is much "drama" out in the ocean. I saw a documentary on them where they said that they could tell what each other is feelng, so questions like, "how are you?" would be retarded. Almost like telepathy. The real dangers come from truly important things, like the pollution of the water, predators, procreation, food, and how to live with and deal with a mostly callow and inconsiderate species that seem to screw things up for them... humans.

Long winded way of saying that surfing relaxes me and keeps me grounded.

Praying for surf this weekend so I can get a therapy session in.

(need to come up with a snazzy closing line. if you come up with one, let me know.)