Double Header Saturday (Labor Day Weekend)

A friend was going to be in SD for the weekend, so me and my surf friend/instructor decided to head down to hit the waves in either Carlsbad or Torrey Pines. It was great! There wasn't a soul to be seen for 300 yards. When we got there it was kind of small, so we took a quick look at La Jolla Shores.

We paddled out to conditions that couldn't be more perfect, well, if the sun burst through the clouds, then it would have been even more perfect than it was. The waves were clean and glassy, so who needs sun? There were some shoulder high waves coming through with some shoulders to work on. I have to reiterate that San Diego waves are some of the best around. Even the small ones have enough push to get you into the groove.

After taking a couple hours break for lunch, we decided to head back in for a 2nd session. What a mistake! The waves looked alright, looked clean, but there was something different. On the first wave, I have to paddle harder than I did in the morning to get into the wave, stood up, then promptly pearled. What the hell just happened? I paddle back out, try for a waist high wave, get up, nose promptly goes under as if there was a vacuum pulling the board down. Every wave after, even if I pig dog it, the nose goes under. My friends were having some of the same issues. Guess the waves can't be perfect all the time.