Tuesday, September 20, 2005

Sunday Short(er) Board, with a mix of Sinus Congestion

My sinuses are once again clogged. I am actually at home early from work cause I might be catchign something. It's not a good thing at all. Sudafed isn't living up to its end of the bargain by draining my sinuses. Then again, the water quality hasn't been all that great, so it has a tough job ahead.

I decided that I should spend more time on my 7'0 hybrid. It's fun in the sense that I can drop in late because of the huge rocker, but paddling is a bitch.

Only one wave comes to mind, a left. I turn, paddle, feel the board catch, grab the outside rail and pig dog for a little while. This is something that's happening more and more to me lately, where I pig dog lefts and am very close to the tail of the board. Each time this happens, I'm super close to the curl and can see the wall of water to my left looming up, ready to bowl over. It's pretty cool being that close to the curl. Like an idiot, I stand up cause I feel like I should, and leaned a little to the right, getting me out of that nice spot. The wave passes by and I can only relish the moment I had, completely connected to the wave.

Now, I just have to be able to do that on purpose!

1 Comments:

Blogger Whiffleboy said...

Nice blog, dude. I'll link back. Where do you normally surf??

9:30 PM  

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Clerks II - July 21, 2006