Lost the edge

After getting popped in the mouth a few weeks back, I've definitely started becoming tentative again with waves. I kind of ditch the board when a big wave comes towards me when i used to just try to duck dive through it all. I have to just say, "fuck it" and start diving through again.

On Saturday, I caught two waves. I only rode one. I went screaming down the face and as I was about to make my bottom turn, to the right, it closed out, so I just jumped off the wave. So, on the next wave, I decided I wanted to turn a little sooner, but popped up too close to the nose and just did a face plant. It wasn't a bad crash, but it would have been a better ride.

Yesterday, it was fogged in at the beach. We went out after looking at the water for 15 minutes. B didn't think there was a drift at all, but I was sure there was. We couldn't see the landmarks (the bathrooms) as we sat on the outside. The waves were a little hard to see since it was glassy and the water and clouds matched in color. I still ditched my board a few times. I tried for a few waves and couldn't get the speed to catch anything. The one wave I caught, I pulled a little too hard on the rail going left and pulled myself out of the wave. I just have to charge! Goes back to one of the resolutions, "confidence!"