Ice cream headache
I can't remember the water being this cold, ever. I should have expected that when I stepped out of the car and just started freezing. Not just a chill, but freezing. I suited up and went out. It was a nice day out, sun was shining, little wind, but small waves. Low tide was peaking around 8:20 at around 2' +.
The waves were mushy on the outside, completely uncharacteristic of Bolsa. The winter storms did their work in messing up the floor bottom. On the way out, I was alternating between knee high water to chest high because of all the troughs/sandbars. The waves were bowling over in the inside section. Hollow waves, breaking over a shallow bottom was a recipe for disaster. There were people out, but not too many were catching waves on the outside. The guys with longboards were catching waves that didn't break. They couldn't ride it too long before sinking cause the wave would peter out.
I was on my 7'0 and stuck to the inside section. I tried the outside stuff and nothing would break for me. 2 regulars, a father and son duo, were also out on funboards. They were catching everything. I remember seeing the son in 2002 and he was tiny. He's gotten a lot older and catches everything that comes his way. I'm so envious! I decided to catch one of those hollow waves on the inside. First thing I did was get up, grab the outside rail and pig dog it. The lip curled over me and it was just like the movies. I was exhilirated and then the wave jacked up, tossed me forwards and into the water I went. I covered my head cause I actually hit the bottom. It was way shallow.
After that, I was pretty much done. I hit the sandy floor on the next wave as well, but didn't get up at all. It was hairy getting back in cause of the inside section. The water was so called, that I couldn't feel my muscles getting tired. They were tired, just couldn't feel them at all.
Anyway, I hope I can get covered for a longer period of time and come out of it.
The waves were mushy on the outside, completely uncharacteristic of Bolsa. The winter storms did their work in messing up the floor bottom. On the way out, I was alternating between knee high water to chest high because of all the troughs/sandbars. The waves were bowling over in the inside section. Hollow waves, breaking over a shallow bottom was a recipe for disaster. There were people out, but not too many were catching waves on the outside. The guys with longboards were catching waves that didn't break. They couldn't ride it too long before sinking cause the wave would peter out.
I was on my 7'0 and stuck to the inside section. I tried the outside stuff and nothing would break for me. 2 regulars, a father and son duo, were also out on funboards. They were catching everything. I remember seeing the son in 2002 and he was tiny. He's gotten a lot older and catches everything that comes his way. I'm so envious! I decided to catch one of those hollow waves on the inside. First thing I did was get up, grab the outside rail and pig dog it. The lip curled over me and it was just like the movies. I was exhilirated and then the wave jacked up, tossed me forwards and into the water I went. I covered my head cause I actually hit the bottom. It was way shallow.
After that, I was pretty much done. I hit the sandy floor on the next wave as well, but didn't get up at all. It was hairy getting back in cause of the inside section. The water was so called, that I couldn't feel my muscles getting tired. They were tired, just couldn't feel them at all.
Anyway, I hope I can get covered for a longer period of time and come out of it.
posted by Dan at 8:56 PM
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