Lapse of Judgment
It rained on Saturday and what did I do on Sunday? I went and got wet. Mostly cause my friend was already in the water, but also to reaffirm my new decision to just charge it. Very few people were in the water cause the conditions weren't great, not just cause of the crap in the water.
People were just gawking from the beach cause high tide was peaking at 9 am that day and it was a 6 foot high tide. I got there around 7:30, which is kind of a late start. Can't really call it DP anymore, more like Morning Patrol.
The board of choice, if you didn't know from previous posts, is the 7'0 hybrid from Becker. Not a bad board, but one that I'm afraid of cause it has popped me in the mouth like a prize fighter back in 2003, the first summer I got it. Been a little wary of that thing ever since. I've had some fun rides on it lately, but that fear still lingers.
There was some size out in the water, but a lot weren't breaking outside cause of the tide. The waves looked big, they'd break really briefly, then reform on the inside to crash right on the sand. When they crashed on the sand, they were hollow and slammed the sand. Looked like it was going to be interesting when I decide to come in.
Went in, got out in a decent amount of time, even with the brutal inside whitewater zone. Definitely have to learn how to get through the waves better, whether through duck diving or turtling, I've got to learn to get through that crap. Just as an aside, I saw a shortboarder pull of a great duck dive. I say "great" cause he popped out of the back of the wave 5 feet from where the whitewater was. I've got to learn to do that.
There was a slight drift and I paddled over to my friend. After catching my breath, I decided to try for some waves. After all, that's the reason I got wet, well that and I wanted to keep up my semi-decent paddling. It's the first thing to go. Nothing was breaking on the outside. I could see the waves wanting to break, get into the right position and then they would die. I mean, I was so deep in these waves that if the tide was lower, I would be shitting bricks to be where I was. I said screw it, started paddling for waves that already broke. Didn't work. It kind of worked on one wave, the whitewater made the whole thing bumpy, and with the 7'0, I couldn't get it under control enough to get up fast. I should have popped up sooner.
After a few more waves like this, I decided it was time to go in. The water looked like pure crap. The color was all wrong and I had flashbacks of my 2003 red tide episodes. Talk about mistakes.
Paddling in was an adventure just like I expected. Each time, I hopped off the board and ducked under. Those waves were breaking right on the sand. 5 feet from the sand and I was still neck deep, barely standing (only when the water was being sucked out by another wave). I had to make a dash and finally got on shore, unscathed.
It wasn't a great session, no waves, but I definitely have to do it again, even in sludge. Have to surf when I can cause who knows if I can keep surfing 3 months from now, let alone the next weekend.
People were just gawking from the beach cause high tide was peaking at 9 am that day and it was a 6 foot high tide. I got there around 7:30, which is kind of a late start. Can't really call it DP anymore, more like Morning Patrol.
The board of choice, if you didn't know from previous posts, is the 7'0 hybrid from Becker. Not a bad board, but one that I'm afraid of cause it has popped me in the mouth like a prize fighter back in 2003, the first summer I got it. Been a little wary of that thing ever since. I've had some fun rides on it lately, but that fear still lingers.
There was some size out in the water, but a lot weren't breaking outside cause of the tide. The waves looked big, they'd break really briefly, then reform on the inside to crash right on the sand. When they crashed on the sand, they were hollow and slammed the sand. Looked like it was going to be interesting when I decide to come in.
Went in, got out in a decent amount of time, even with the brutal inside whitewater zone. Definitely have to learn how to get through the waves better, whether through duck diving or turtling, I've got to learn to get through that crap. Just as an aside, I saw a shortboarder pull of a great duck dive. I say "great" cause he popped out of the back of the wave 5 feet from where the whitewater was. I've got to learn to do that.
There was a slight drift and I paddled over to my friend. After catching my breath, I decided to try for some waves. After all, that's the reason I got wet, well that and I wanted to keep up my semi-decent paddling. It's the first thing to go. Nothing was breaking on the outside. I could see the waves wanting to break, get into the right position and then they would die. I mean, I was so deep in these waves that if the tide was lower, I would be shitting bricks to be where I was. I said screw it, started paddling for waves that already broke. Didn't work. It kind of worked on one wave, the whitewater made the whole thing bumpy, and with the 7'0, I couldn't get it under control enough to get up fast. I should have popped up sooner.
After a few more waves like this, I decided it was time to go in. The water looked like pure crap. The color was all wrong and I had flashbacks of my 2003 red tide episodes. Talk about mistakes.
Paddling in was an adventure just like I expected. Each time, I hopped off the board and ducked under. Those waves were breaking right on the sand. 5 feet from the sand and I was still neck deep, barely standing (only when the water was being sucked out by another wave). I had to make a dash and finally got on shore, unscathed.
It wasn't a great session, no waves, but I definitely have to do it again, even in sludge. Have to surf when I can cause who knows if I can keep surfing 3 months from now, let alone the next weekend.
posted by Dan at 8:19 PM
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