Drip or Clog?
Water has been warming up, but I now wonder if it will ever clear up to what it was like in 2002 or 2003? I can't even imagine surfing the home break and having it green enough that I can see the bottom while I'm bobbing on the outside like a buoy. I hope someone can make a gigantic filter, like the ones they have for an aquarium, and just filter out all the crap out there.
Friday saw the swell start to fill in and I went out with a friend who was visiiting from out of town. I only caught one decent wave. I've got 2 excuses prepared for that horrible performance already:
1) Riding the 7'0 for the first time in ages, thus no paddle strength.
2) Slept funny so I had a stiff neck.
Doesn't matter much cause the one wave was pretty good, even though I still bailed out a little earlier than I should have. The wall started to form up on the inside and rather than crouching down and trying to catch the right angle to get more speed to see if I can get a tiny barrel, I jump off. Wuss move.
The waves were coming in pretty consistently till aroud 9:30 when it just went flat. The wind had picked up and there was texture on the surface, but no more waves were rolling in. The tide was going out and it sucked out all the energy in the water as well.
I didn't go out on Saturday cause I had other things I had to do, but I did go out on Sunday. I was worried that the swell was going to fade so I brought out the 7'11. There wasn't much to worry about cause there was still quite a few waves to be had. They were rolling in consistently at chest to shoulder high.
During the first half of the session, I was getting hung up on the lip. Just not paddling hard enough or too far out. There were a couple that could have been made, but I pulled out cause I was worried I'd be flying over the front of the nose cause of the steep drop. It's much easier for me to go backside on steep drops than front side. After I caught a few, that's when things started clicking to the point I caught a decent amount of waves for the day. Nothing really stood out.
For whatever reason, the whole break became packed with people around 10 ish. One group of people came out and started bunching up on the peak that I was sitting on with my friend. It was annoying because they didn't bother looking left or right before paddling for a wave. I saw one lady start paddling for a wave that some guy who was trying for 10 yards to the outside of her. She went anyway and just about hit the guy with her board. Another guy clearly snaked my friend's wave and yelled out, "Party Wave!" People who roll in large groups must think that common courtesy is not important. Geez people! You're surfing on a huge piece of fiberglass, some with sharp noses, that can seriously impale someone!
By the way, cause of polluted water or what have you, my sinuses are clogged. I sound like I have a cold, but my sinuses are plugged up from sea water. It's one of the reasons why I haven't gone back in the water until it clears up. I'm more susceptible to colds when my sinuses are screwed. So, is it better to have my nose drip out in public or have it clogged?
Friday saw the swell start to fill in and I went out with a friend who was visiiting from out of town. I only caught one decent wave. I've got 2 excuses prepared for that horrible performance already:
1) Riding the 7'0 for the first time in ages, thus no paddle strength.
2) Slept funny so I had a stiff neck.
Doesn't matter much cause the one wave was pretty good, even though I still bailed out a little earlier than I should have. The wall started to form up on the inside and rather than crouching down and trying to catch the right angle to get more speed to see if I can get a tiny barrel, I jump off. Wuss move.
The waves were coming in pretty consistently till aroud 9:30 when it just went flat. The wind had picked up and there was texture on the surface, but no more waves were rolling in. The tide was going out and it sucked out all the energy in the water as well.
I didn't go out on Saturday cause I had other things I had to do, but I did go out on Sunday. I was worried that the swell was going to fade so I brought out the 7'11. There wasn't much to worry about cause there was still quite a few waves to be had. They were rolling in consistently at chest to shoulder high.
During the first half of the session, I was getting hung up on the lip. Just not paddling hard enough or too far out. There were a couple that could have been made, but I pulled out cause I was worried I'd be flying over the front of the nose cause of the steep drop. It's much easier for me to go backside on steep drops than front side. After I caught a few, that's when things started clicking to the point I caught a decent amount of waves for the day. Nothing really stood out.
For whatever reason, the whole break became packed with people around 10 ish. One group of people came out and started bunching up on the peak that I was sitting on with my friend. It was annoying because they didn't bother looking left or right before paddling for a wave. I saw one lady start paddling for a wave that some guy who was trying for 10 yards to the outside of her. She went anyway and just about hit the guy with her board. Another guy clearly snaked my friend's wave and yelled out, "Party Wave!" People who roll in large groups must think that common courtesy is not important. Geez people! You're surfing on a huge piece of fiberglass, some with sharp noses, that can seriously impale someone!
By the way, cause of polluted water or what have you, my sinuses are clogged. I sound like I have a cold, but my sinuses are plugged up from sea water. It's one of the reasons why I haven't gone back in the water until it clears up. I'm more susceptible to colds when my sinuses are screwed. So, is it better to have my nose drip out in public or have it clogged?
posted by Dan at 8:32 AM
1 Comments:
Hey what a great site keep up the work its excellent.
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