Three of a Kind
Number of waves pouring in today? Infinite. They just kept coming in. How many did I catch, just 3. There were some clean up sets rolling through and the place was drained out in the morning. I didn't get to the beach till a little before 10 because of the tide, but my friend said that it was good earlier even with the low tide. The swell was big enough to work through the lunar issues and was completely clean with no wind.
By the time I got out there, the wind had picked up and got worse as the session wore on. There was one wave where as I was about to pop up, when the back wash jacked up the whole wave and I had to bail out. Would have been interesting if I were to have pulled that off. Alas, we won't know what that ride would have amounted to.
I kooked out of the best wave that was all mine. It had a great right shoulder and as my board was getting into the wave, it became super steep and instead of just crouching down and going for it, I jumped off. What a wuss!
The first wave was a broken right. I got up, turned immediately at a sharp angle right into the broken part of the wave and was leaning into the wave so much that I wasn't able to straighten out to get more speed to make the section.
I finally caught a decent wave going right, but it lost its sizzle. The ride was a right and I just cruised for a long time and my board couldn't get the speed to get past the whitewater and get to the shoulder. It was bit frustrating seeing the shoulder only a few yards from me, but constantly eluding me.
Last wave of the day was the swan song. By this time, the inside section was filled with families searching for respite from the hot weather we've been having. The whole beach was crowded, something I'm not accustomed to. I usually get there early and leave by 11am or so, before the crowds get out of hand. I caught the wave, was going right, nice and comfortable like. I couldn't see much past the wave in front of me, but as it rolled to shore, I saw two bobbing heads. I straightened out as much as possible and bailed out, hoping that my board doesn't go flying toward the swimmers, which it didn't since I'm here writing this blog and not filling out a police report. Good thing, too. Although, one of them was pretty big and my board might have suffered worse from such a collision. I kid! I kid! I wouldn't run over anyone and I'm sure my board would have put a nasty bump on that person's head without suffering any ill effects... maybe.
By the time I got out there, the wind had picked up and got worse as the session wore on. There was one wave where as I was about to pop up, when the back wash jacked up the whole wave and I had to bail out. Would have been interesting if I were to have pulled that off. Alas, we won't know what that ride would have amounted to.
I kooked out of the best wave that was all mine. It had a great right shoulder and as my board was getting into the wave, it became super steep and instead of just crouching down and going for it, I jumped off. What a wuss!
The first wave was a broken right. I got up, turned immediately at a sharp angle right into the broken part of the wave and was leaning into the wave so much that I wasn't able to straighten out to get more speed to make the section.
I finally caught a decent wave going right, but it lost its sizzle. The ride was a right and I just cruised for a long time and my board couldn't get the speed to get past the whitewater and get to the shoulder. It was bit frustrating seeing the shoulder only a few yards from me, but constantly eluding me.
Last wave of the day was the swan song. By this time, the inside section was filled with families searching for respite from the hot weather we've been having. The whole beach was crowded, something I'm not accustomed to. I usually get there early and leave by 11am or so, before the crowds get out of hand. I caught the wave, was going right, nice and comfortable like. I couldn't see much past the wave in front of me, but as it rolled to shore, I saw two bobbing heads. I straightened out as much as possible and bailed out, hoping that my board doesn't go flying toward the swimmers, which it didn't since I'm here writing this blog and not filling out a police report. Good thing, too. Although, one of them was pretty big and my board might have suffered worse from such a collision. I kid! I kid! I wouldn't run over anyone and I'm sure my board would have put a nasty bump on that person's head without suffering any ill effects... maybe.
posted by Dan at 1:37 PM
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