4th Eve

Had a great day back in the water after a few weeks out of it. Caught some fun waves that I can't believe I caught, but lost power right away. Not that I was tired, just didn't have the power to get into the waves after the first hour. Paddling strength goes away so fast. I don't know what goes faster, paddling strength or girls I ask for their number?

The week and a half out of the country brought about some perspectives. I should be thankful for the waist high days cause I saw some people paddling for knee high waves as if it was the best thing out there. These people were on shortboards on these tiny waves. They paddle, get up, bottom turn, top turn if they are lucky, and then sink as the wave dies. The above pic is one of the bigger waves. Imagine when this is a good day and then be thankful for the waves we have.

Can't wait for the next swell.