Bath Water

The water was so warm on Saturday. It was unbelievable! The only bad part was that there was a bit too much wind to really enjoy the warm waters. I don't ever remember a day in the water that was warmer than it was on Saturday. The reports say that the temps have since dropped.

I did catch a few fun waves, but the crowds are getting crazy. I see the regulars out there, but who are all these strangers. Surfing is one of those weird sports where you want to share the stoke when you're out of the water, but get selfish once you're in the water. That's how I am. I try to get as many people interested and then give them dirty looks when they encroach upon my 100-200 yards of beach break. Yeah, I'm filled with contradictions.

On Friday night, Quiksilver had a screening for Dane Reynolds' new surf film at their HQ. It was an outdoor screening and pretty much anyone who knew about it was invited. They offered In N Out burgers and water for free. There was some alcohol and I suspect the beer was free, too. They had a concert right after that by Sparta. It was pretty cool that they had something like that. Dane Reynolds rips, by the way. It was the first I had heard of him. I don't know much about the surfers who dominate the sport other than Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, Andy Irons and a few others.

My wish, warm waters, nice peaks peeling, and no one around. It's more of a fantasy.