Who's writing these surf reports?
The surf report said, 1-3 weak and small. Really? I took a look, it looked small, but there was shape. Every now and then a chest high wave would come peaking through. I caught a bunch of waves that had some push. It was a blast! I went right, I went left (seldomly even though that was the majority of the waves these days).
Water temp was a bit chilly and being in trunks started my teeth clattering during some of the lulls. It was a good day for beginners, but even for people who were looking for some stoke, there was plenty to be had.
I caught a bunch of waves, then on the paddle out, I got in the way of one of the locals ladies. Three times to be exact. She was cool about it after I apologized. She said it happens to her all the time. I might have been chilly in board shorts and a vest, but she was just in her bathing suit. She was keeping it real.
If tomorrow is anything like today, I'll have just as much fun.
Water temp was a bit chilly and being in trunks started my teeth clattering during some of the lulls. It was a good day for beginners, but even for people who were looking for some stoke, there was plenty to be had.
I caught a bunch of waves, then on the paddle out, I got in the way of one of the locals ladies. Three times to be exact. She was cool about it after I apologized. She said it happens to her all the time. I might have been chilly in board shorts and a vest, but she was just in her bathing suit. She was keeping it real.
If tomorrow is anything like today, I'll have just as much fun.
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