Pig Dogging 2, Frontside 1

Current was pretty fierce last Saturday. The waves weren't as big as the reports said it would be, but, the waves were hollow. First wave, pig dog going left, got covered before I pulled too hard and went out the back. Still can't change directions too well. Trying, but it's on my list of things I need to work on. Have to learn to cut back.

The majority of the waves were going left and you could see the swell from the beach hitting a funky angle. Most everyone was going left, but I was seriously waiting for rights. Two reasons for this. 1) I need to learn to take steep waves going front side (Pig dogging helps on those fast drops.) 2) The current was sending everyone North.

You want to know how bad the current was? I'll give you two examples. I try for two waves. The key word is *try.* I end up 2 lifeguard towers north and I didn't even catch the wave. When I decided enough was enough, I took one in and walked out, thinking I was probably only 1 more tower down since I went right. Nope! I was 4 lots down!!! A lot of people were doing the long walk back to their cars far to the South. Any farther North and I would have been itching to get a Breakfast Jack on Warner.

Sunday saw a huge drop in size. The current was bad, but not as bad. It was good in some ways because packs of people would just drift on by. I just had to keep paddling south while catching as many rights as possible. My friends were 4 lots down before they hiked back to where I was. By that time, I was too tired to stay out much longer and just rode one in. Only one tower south this time, if that.

Sunday was probably one of the first times I saw a girl in a bikini who was both good at surfing and was deserving of wearing a bikini. Not too often you see that combo.