Saturday, September 02, 2006

Reverse Switch

Last week, waves were bowling, current pushed us North. This week, waves are small and mushy, current pushes us South. The current wasn't super strong, not as strong as last week, that's for sure, but there was definitely a drift.

I brought out the 9'2 in anticipation of the small waves. It was definitely the right board for the day. I caught a bunch of waves. It's simply amazing how many waves that thing can catch. I was just catching so many waves.

I had 3 problems surfing this board today though.
1) I tried for a wave and sort of dropped in on a local, who I know. I felt I had priority since I was sitting out there when the local just got out again after riding a wave to the sand. He turned around and went after the same wave I was going for. I pig dogged it going left saw he caught the wave as well, so I pulled as hard as I could to go over the wave. Didn't work too well. I yelled "sorry" to him and we chit chatted for a bit after he got back to the outside. No hard feelings. Helps to surf the same place enough that he knows I normally don't drop on someone (though I still maintain I should have had priority on that wave; what happened to taking turns?)

2.) I pearled a few waves. Being a longer board, I need to angle drop it more. I didn't do it enough and did more than a few somersaults over the front of my board. There were some spectacular wipe outs. I wish I could have seen them.

3.) Turning on the big board on smaller days is a bit tough. I ate it a few times when I tried to turn the board and the board just didn't want to turn. I was too far ahead on my board and should have shifted back to the tail to use the back foot as a pivot. I started to get it right after a few waves, but towards the end of the day, I wiped out on a small wave trying to turn it again too hard with my feet too far up on the board.

The water was warm and the sun was shining early. There was very little wind in the morning, but that didn't last too long.

There was a huge line to get into the lots, but a lot of these people turned around and left after seeing that the waves were tiny.

The most unexpected visitor to the home break was a sea lion. I don't like surfing anywhere sea lions because they happen to be the favorite dish of sharks, the ones big enough to dine on sea lions. I know why he was there though, there was an abundance of fish today. I know that after seeing a school of smelt jumping out of the water and that I think I stepped on one. Whatever it was, it was squishy and squirmy. It took off as soon as my foot touched it. Creeps me out. I worry that it's a stingray and always lift my feet off right away. Stingrays suck ass!

2 more days of surfing to go before the work week starts up again!

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Clerks II - July 21, 2006