Microwaves
Well, another October has come and gone. There wasn't an epic day like the day I had in 2003. That one Sunday still ranks as one of the best surf days of my short life in this sport. That day started off small and I was just getting back into the water after taking a one month break due to a simultaneous ear and sinus infection caused by surfing in red tide. (Yeah, I didn't learn from that first time and went back in only to get the same affliction in time for the Christmas holidays that year.) That Sunday was still the very best though. The crowd thinned out around 9 am, probably thinking that the best of what was out there had already come and gone.
I was thinking of packing it in myself because I was tired (no stamina from one month of recovery) and I had to get to school to finish up a project. I decided to catch one in and wouldn't you know, it was one of the best waves I had. It was a great left (though I could have gone right) that I rode to the shore. The water was crystal clear and I could see the sandy bottom through the shoulder and it was magical. I paddled back out to get another like that and lo and behold, another beautiful left (I had a tendency to go left a lot back then). I decided I should work on my rights and see if I could catch one going that way. Wouldn't you know it, a nice right! I was going up and down the wave, in a slow roller coaster. The waves were chest to shoulder. That particular wave, my friend went left and I went right. Some guy came up to me after I paddled out and told me that it looked like a text book drop in. I stayed for another few hours until I got too hungry to catch any more waves and I had to meet up with a friend to start on the school project. The waves kept breaking like that all day, as my surfing teacher would attest. He surfed until he got too tired to paddle for waves and crashed in his car for a few hours before going out again.
Yep, magical October day. Sunny skies, crystal clear water, no crowds, peaks everywhere, no wind...
This past weekend was nowhere near as magical. I brought out the big board for the small waves. I caught some fun waist high waves on Saturday and cheated once, before plummeting into the watery depths when I tried to dip the toes.
Sunday was even smaller. I caught as many waves as possible with the hog. You know what's weird? There was still a crowd out there. What gives? It's October! Granted the water was still warm, but still!
The other thing I really need to work on is judging people's abilities. I didn't try for some waves others were paddling for when I should have. I didn't drop in on anyone today, but there were far too many waves I passed up on because I couldn't judge whether or not the other person would catch it. Got to learn to judge those guys.
This coming week probably harbingers the changing of the swells as I will start drifting southwards rather than towards Sunset Beach.
I was thinking of packing it in myself because I was tired (no stamina from one month of recovery) and I had to get to school to finish up a project. I decided to catch one in and wouldn't you know, it was one of the best waves I had. It was a great left (though I could have gone right) that I rode to the shore. The water was crystal clear and I could see the sandy bottom through the shoulder and it was magical. I paddled back out to get another like that and lo and behold, another beautiful left (I had a tendency to go left a lot back then). I decided I should work on my rights and see if I could catch one going that way. Wouldn't you know it, a nice right! I was going up and down the wave, in a slow roller coaster. The waves were chest to shoulder. That particular wave, my friend went left and I went right. Some guy came up to me after I paddled out and told me that it looked like a text book drop in. I stayed for another few hours until I got too hungry to catch any more waves and I had to meet up with a friend to start on the school project. The waves kept breaking like that all day, as my surfing teacher would attest. He surfed until he got too tired to paddle for waves and crashed in his car for a few hours before going out again.
Yep, magical October day. Sunny skies, crystal clear water, no crowds, peaks everywhere, no wind...
This past weekend was nowhere near as magical. I brought out the big board for the small waves. I caught some fun waist high waves on Saturday and cheated once, before plummeting into the watery depths when I tried to dip the toes.
Sunday was even smaller. I caught as many waves as possible with the hog. You know what's weird? There was still a crowd out there. What gives? It's October! Granted the water was still warm, but still!
The other thing I really need to work on is judging people's abilities. I didn't try for some waves others were paddling for when I should have. I didn't drop in on anyone today, but there were far too many waves I passed up on because I couldn't judge whether or not the other person would catch it. Got to learn to judge those guys.
This coming week probably harbingers the changing of the swells as I will start drifting southwards rather than towards Sunset Beach.
posted by Dan at 7:48 PM
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