10/15/06
Run off surf, got to love it. I didn't go out yesterday because I figured the rain would put a damper on things. Made a mistake. I heard it was fun and clean yesterday morning. I went out today thinking I could make up for it.
I got to the home break before dawn, with very little light to see the virtually non existent waves. There were just crumblers barely knee high. I didn't think it was even worth going out, with the onshore breeze blowing consistently. The only people out were some newbies (they were struggling with the crumbly white water) and a few others who just seemed they were jonesing for whatever waves they could get.
By the time my friend came out, we looked at the waves and decided to just go out and catch whatever we could. Good thing I brought out the Griffin. 9'2" of pure wave catching power. The waves picked up by the time we got into the water, which was chilly, but not overly so. The morning wind gave the surface some texture and the sun was trying to break through the clouds. It turned out to be a good decision. I caught a bunch of waves, mostly going right at first. I started trying out the backside thing again, with these crumblers. I still ate it a few times, but did get some fun rides.
I traded boards with a friend so that she could try out the beauty of a big board on small days. Her board needs more wax. I wonder if she knows this? I didn't mention it to her, but I think I'll let her know next week by giving her some wax. I slipped off her board while trying to pop up. Didn't make me too happy, but at least I didn't have to ride it the whole time.
Forecast has no swell in the near future. Got to start praying for surf!
I got to the home break before dawn, with very little light to see the virtually non existent waves. There were just crumblers barely knee high. I didn't think it was even worth going out, with the onshore breeze blowing consistently. The only people out were some newbies (they were struggling with the crumbly white water) and a few others who just seemed they were jonesing for whatever waves they could get.
By the time my friend came out, we looked at the waves and decided to just go out and catch whatever we could. Good thing I brought out the Griffin. 9'2" of pure wave catching power. The waves picked up by the time we got into the water, which was chilly, but not overly so. The morning wind gave the surface some texture and the sun was trying to break through the clouds. It turned out to be a good decision. I caught a bunch of waves, mostly going right at first. I started trying out the backside thing again, with these crumblers. I still ate it a few times, but did get some fun rides.
I traded boards with a friend so that she could try out the beauty of a big board on small days. Her board needs more wax. I wonder if she knows this? I didn't mention it to her, but I think I'll let her know next week by giving her some wax. I slipped off her board while trying to pop up. Didn't make me too happy, but at least I didn't have to ride it the whole time.
Forecast has no swell in the near future. Got to start praying for surf!
posted by Dan at 3:41 PM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home