Sunday, October 01, 2006

The Great Wall of Torrey Pines

Went down to Torrey Pines yesterday and the waves looked kind of small from the beach, but when we got in, it was bigger. The waves have always been a bit more powerful than the home break. The little bumps in Bolsa that just frustrate you are completely different at Torrey Pines. They usually have enough push to give you a semi-decent ride.

I had a dry hair paddle out. Didn't think it would be too bad, but when I tried to catch one, it started bowling. It was a straight wall going down. Few people were catching much out there. I only had a wave count of 2 for the day. The rest of the time was me paddling northward. The last wave was my wave in. It was a right. I got one other wave going left. We did get to surf with some dolphins, though. They came up real close, about 5 feet away. The water was freaking chilly, too.

Today (Sunday) was much better. Went back to the home break for some nice peaks going left mostly. It was crowded, then not crowded, and ended up being crowded again. It wouldn't be as bad except some people were hanging out on the inside. What gives? If you're going to crowd up the break, you may as well come to the outside so that people can catch waves without fear of avoiding buoys on the inside. Even the people on the outside were running into each other. I saw two collisions within a matter of minutes (2 minutes to be exact).

My friend sent me this trailer for Surf's Up, an animated film coming out next year. The scary thing is that many new surfers are going to crowd up the beach after this film comes out. It was bad after Blue Crush. This is going to appeal to both girls and kids. Yes, I don't think it's ever going to go back to the crowds of 2003. It's been downhill since that year.

P.S. Waves suck in October, may as well wait for the true winter swells that start coming through in November.

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Clerks II - July 21, 2006