Ins and Outs

The high tide was making the back wash almost as big as some of the waves rolling in. The swell was making its presence felt yesterday with some head high waves coming through every now and then. Of course, when you catch a wave, the drop can be very interesting. As you drop in, the back wash will create a ramp for you to catch some air or, if you're in the wrong spot, the wave and the backwash will meet when the wave is breaking creating a loud explosion. If you're caught when the two meet, you get sandwiched in between.

I took out the 7'11 yesterday and only had a few good rides. The water was warm at least and clear. I think the water's been a lot cleaner than it has been in the last few years.

Today (Sunday) was more of the same high tide back wash. I thought it was cleaner than yesterday, simply because there were shoulders, more shoulders than yesterday. There was a bit of a fog when and some clouds covering the sun. The water was still warm. The biggest change was the bump on the water. There was a slight breeze creating the texture. The rides weren't as smooth.

I took out my little 7'0. I had one really good right. Each time I take out that board these days, I am getting more comfortable with it. Leads me to reaffirm the idea that I bought the board a few years too early for my skill. I made late drops and such all day today (not to say my wave count was super high or anything). This particular right, one of the few the whole day, had a gigantic shoulder. I didn't pump the board to get it higher on the face, which I should of. I was a little nervous about the lip jacking up, but I am sure I would have made it, either way. Got to take out that board more often to get my stamina to paddle that thing around and to experiment with carving up the wave a bit more. It's not a pure shortboard, but it's the closest thing I have to one right now.