Pounding
The forecast for the weekend was for PM showers on Saturday at 60% and AM showers on Sunday. So, Saturday morning was the only chance I'd get to surf some waves. The actual weather? Cloudy and windy. It's a 40-45 minute drive out to the regular break, so weather can be totally different by the time you get out there.
Weather at the beach? Gusty onshore winds, lots of chop, sprinkles off and on. Very few people out in the water as the white water was just everywhere. It was messy with lots of size. It's a beach break, so there are few true channels to paddle out through, just have to dive or wait for the lulls (which were frequent, but very short).
My friend was already out in the water and I just stood at the base of one of the lights just watching to see if he caught anything. I was debating whether to go out or not because it was cold!
I started chatting with some guy who just came out and he said it was fun, if you catch one. "Might as well go out, this is the only day you can surf because it's going to rain tomorrow." That was enough. I've been too long out of the water not to at least get some paddling time in. It's the first thing that goes, after all.
I suited up, paddled out a little to the north of where my friend was (have to compensate for the drift). There was only one other guy out there on a longboard.
Guess how long it took to get out to the outside? Honestly, I couldn't tell you. It was over 15 minutes of just paddling and ducking through wave after wave. After awhile, it was just me diving under the waves without the board. There were a few times where it would have been much easier to just turn the board around and belly board one in.
After getting tossed around, held under a couple of times and occasionally dragged backwards by the board, I got out. Triumph! I ended up 100 yards south of where I started out. The arms were dead. They were paddling, but very little travel came of it.
What do you know? A sneak set came in, 20 yards farther out. Started scratching for the horizon, but it was pretty clear that I wasn't going to make it. Took one on the head, then caught one in. Didn't even have the strength to pop up.
Today was the day after the storm. Surfline said that it was weak and sloppy. Nothing to wake up for so I slept in. I hope next week is better.
Weather at the beach? Gusty onshore winds, lots of chop, sprinkles off and on. Very few people out in the water as the white water was just everywhere. It was messy with lots of size. It's a beach break, so there are few true channels to paddle out through, just have to dive or wait for the lulls (which were frequent, but very short).
My friend was already out in the water and I just stood at the base of one of the lights just watching to see if he caught anything. I was debating whether to go out or not because it was cold!
I started chatting with some guy who just came out and he said it was fun, if you catch one. "Might as well go out, this is the only day you can surf because it's going to rain tomorrow." That was enough. I've been too long out of the water not to at least get some paddling time in. It's the first thing that goes, after all.
I suited up, paddled out a little to the north of where my friend was (have to compensate for the drift). There was only one other guy out there on a longboard.
Guess how long it took to get out to the outside? Honestly, I couldn't tell you. It was over 15 minutes of just paddling and ducking through wave after wave. After awhile, it was just me diving under the waves without the board. There were a few times where it would have been much easier to just turn the board around and belly board one in.
After getting tossed around, held under a couple of times and occasionally dragged backwards by the board, I got out. Triumph! I ended up 100 yards south of where I started out. The arms were dead. They were paddling, but very little travel came of it.
What do you know? A sneak set came in, 20 yards farther out. Started scratching for the horizon, but it was pretty clear that I wasn't going to make it. Took one on the head, then caught one in. Didn't even have the strength to pop up.
Today was the day after the storm. Surfline said that it was weak and sloppy. Nothing to wake up for so I slept in. I hope next week is better.
posted by Dan at 8:38 PM
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