Damned if you do, damned if you don't
Last week was flat. I didn't bother going out, there was no point.
This week was supposed to be the big swell. I went out yesterday and wouldn't you know it, it was big and hollow. Only problem is that the whole beach was walled up. The tide was coming up and there were some guys out. All I saw was people catching waves and going straight before the whole thing closed out. I could see a shoulder, but it was closing out way too fast. My friend said that he was almost at RPB, some place that was good during large winter swells. Big mistake. That place turned out to be knee high waves with barely any push. I didn't bother suiting up and getting into that foul water with only my little 7'0 hybrid to battle against longboards.
My friend was in the water and he caught a few tiny waves, but they were short rides and nothing great. I should have just stayed at the home break and waited for the high tide to slow up the waves just enough that the shape would clean up. A few of the locals mentioned that it got great yesterday.
I went out this morning hoping that there would still be some swell in the water, but the conditions totally sucked. It rained the night before and the water reflected the storm.
Ugh. Damned if you do and damned if you don't.
This week was supposed to be the big swell. I went out yesterday and wouldn't you know it, it was big and hollow. Only problem is that the whole beach was walled up. The tide was coming up and there were some guys out. All I saw was people catching waves and going straight before the whole thing closed out. I could see a shoulder, but it was closing out way too fast. My friend said that he was almost at RPB, some place that was good during large winter swells. Big mistake. That place turned out to be knee high waves with barely any push. I didn't bother suiting up and getting into that foul water with only my little 7'0 hybrid to battle against longboards.
My friend was in the water and he caught a few tiny waves, but they were short rides and nothing great. I should have just stayed at the home break and waited for the high tide to slow up the waves just enough that the shape would clean up. A few of the locals mentioned that it got great yesterday.
I went out this morning hoping that there would still be some swell in the water, but the conditions totally sucked. It rained the night before and the water reflected the storm.
Ugh. Damned if you do and damned if you don't.
posted by Dan at 8:19 PM
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