Fun Saturday

Waves were big, water was glassy, crowd was only moderate. No sun though. The waves were pouring in non stop for awhile and there were some head highs poking through every now and then. I caught a bunch of waves, going right of course. A few lefts here and there, but nothing to write home about.

The next day, I got to the break a little late because of my late night the night before. I didn't even bother paddling out. The waves were big and even though there was a lull every so often, I decided I'd only get pounded and didn't have the energy to paddle out.

Instead, I hung out with some of the older locals, listening to their stories. The stories weren't necessarily about waves or surf, but they mostly centered around the other characters who surfed that spot. It would appear that a lot of the locals used to be ex military. They had stories about that as well as the other people who were. Some people were less liked than others. This was all while they were watching the surf and cheering for some of the more energetic people catching waves.

The waves are pumping right now, unfortunately for me, I won't be surfing for the next few weeks with a slight tear in my calf muscle. Not a fun thing at all, but there isn't an injury that can be characterized as "fun" is there?