Left? What's a Left?

It was nothing but lefts today and since I've been going predominantly right, I completely kooked my first 3 waves.

Wave coming. Turn. Paddle. Get up. Face goes into water. Repeat 2 more times.

I finally caught a right that completely closed out, but not before I went flying down the face on a really steep drop. After that, I attempted a left and was all good... mostly. Ate it on another left later on, but did manage a few lefts before catching my ride of the day. Chest high wave, going right, zipping up and down the face of the wave.

Ever wonder about your foot position on a board? I put a traction pad on my 7'11 on the recommendation of a friend. He places his back foot right over where his center fin is located so that he can do really tight turns. Every time I've tried doing that on the 7'11, I drag so much that I completely stall out. Instead, my back foot is about 6 inches in front of the traction pad (I should just move it) and that's my comfort zone. I can roller coaster up and down waves, but not to the point where I'm able to do any cutbacks any time soon. On the 7'0, I'm way on the tail. Just a function of the board, I think.

Here's hoping tomorrow will yield some half decent waves. In fact, I'm going to go check the reports to see whether I should bring the big board out.

Water was chilly with tons of texture due to the south wind. It did become glassy for all of 20 minutes before becoming choppy again. Sky was cloudy, with small inklings of blue. Water was also murky and tide was low in the morning. Crowd was moderate at the home break, but I fear the crowds come Memorial Day in 2 months.