Back in the Saddle Again
The waves didn't look that great from the beach. However, it's a good thing for me since I had been out of the water for so long. It sucks being sick. I thought it was perhaps due to riding in a closed cylinder for 5 hours with a bunch of other people who were carrying unknown diseases. Or it might have been that I didn't wait 72 hours before surfing after a rain storm. Or it could just be that everyone has been getting sick this year. Whatever the reason, it kept me out of the water for a long while. I didn't want to go back in the water until I was 95% healthy. I still have a nagging cough, but that's about it.
The sky was partially cloudy, with the sun playing peek-a-boo all session. The water had some texture and it was chilly out there. The waves didn't look promising as the tide dropped out fast this morning (Sunday). I paddled out at the home break with my hair still defying gravity from having bed head. It took my first wave and dunking before the hair went back down. The waves didn't have much push at first, so that first wave was taken after the wave broke. Nonetheless, I was able to get over to the shoulder in a timely fashion to make due with what I had.
The next wave, a right as it's become my preferred direction these days, had a great shoulder and reformed a little on the inside before closing out completely.
I grabbed a few more waves before the onshore wind picked up. It turned choppy out there and the waves stopped coming through for a good 20 minutes. Another regular on his 9' plus board wasn't even able to catch anything, so I didn't feel bad when I wasn't catching much of anything either. He went in soon after that, frustrated with his wave count. It just seemed like he was having an off day that day.
I think it might have been that there was a dark cloud following that guy because the waves started coming through again after he left. I caught a few more waves before my arms got too tired. First thing that always goes is the paddle strength.
P.S. If I don't respond to comments right away or they're not posted right away it's because I'm lazy and I forget that I have to review comments before they're published. I've gotten a few spam comments. Man, spammers are everywhere!!!
The sky was partially cloudy, with the sun playing peek-a-boo all session. The water had some texture and it was chilly out there. The waves didn't look promising as the tide dropped out fast this morning (Sunday). I paddled out at the home break with my hair still defying gravity from having bed head. It took my first wave and dunking before the hair went back down. The waves didn't have much push at first, so that first wave was taken after the wave broke. Nonetheless, I was able to get over to the shoulder in a timely fashion to make due with what I had.
The next wave, a right as it's become my preferred direction these days, had a great shoulder and reformed a little on the inside before closing out completely.
I grabbed a few more waves before the onshore wind picked up. It turned choppy out there and the waves stopped coming through for a good 20 minutes. Another regular on his 9' plus board wasn't even able to catch anything, so I didn't feel bad when I wasn't catching much of anything either. He went in soon after that, frustrated with his wave count. It just seemed like he was having an off day that day.
I think it might have been that there was a dark cloud following that guy because the waves started coming through again after he left. I caught a few more waves before my arms got too tired. First thing that always goes is the paddle strength.
P.S. If I don't respond to comments right away or they're not posted right away it's because I'm lazy and I forget that I have to review comments before they're published. I've gotten a few spam comments. Man, spammers are everywhere!!!
posted by Dan at 11:31 PM
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