Fantastic Crashes
Last week was flat. Nothing to really report about last week other than I stayed home and ran errands. The tide was also a factor.
Today, well, today was good and bad. It didn't look like much when I got there, maybe knee with an occasional waist. The long boarders were having a bit of trouble for the most part, except for one guy on a baby blue board. He was catching waves even though they didn't end up breaking.
I was a bit reluctant to go out because it's cold! I did end up paddling out with my magic board (which I've resorted to again) and wasn't sure that it was going to fit the bill. Not because the board in incapable of producing good rides on small days, just that I was unsure whether I had the paddle strength to get into the waves.
Things picked up soon after paddling out (dry hair/wet face day). I caught a few chest high rights after sitting out there struggling with the tiny stuff. It picked up as the session went on. There wasn't much of a crowd either.
As for the crashes, I had a few very late takeoffs which led to me being sucked over the falls while I was standing. The biggest fear is where the board is in relation to where my body is tumbling underneath the surface. Since the falls sucked me over, I was in the wash with the board. I banged a shin, but that was no big deal.
I got sucked over a few more times before learning my lesson. Honestly, getting tumbled around is fun. I enjoy it. It's the board that freaks me out because that piece of fiberglass covered foam hurts when it comes right at you, especially the edges. Good thing nothing happened and I got my nice little tumble.
Towards the end of 2 hours, the waves really started slowing down, but there were still fun ones coming through every now and then if you were patient. The water was glassy and the only thing that would have made the whole day even better was a sunny sky. Overcast the whole time with no glimpses of blue.
No surf tomorrow. Got to take a trip!
Today, well, today was good and bad. It didn't look like much when I got there, maybe knee with an occasional waist. The long boarders were having a bit of trouble for the most part, except for one guy on a baby blue board. He was catching waves even though they didn't end up breaking.
I was a bit reluctant to go out because it's cold! I did end up paddling out with my magic board (which I've resorted to again) and wasn't sure that it was going to fit the bill. Not because the board in incapable of producing good rides on small days, just that I was unsure whether I had the paddle strength to get into the waves.
Things picked up soon after paddling out (dry hair/wet face day). I caught a few chest high rights after sitting out there struggling with the tiny stuff. It picked up as the session went on. There wasn't much of a crowd either.
As for the crashes, I had a few very late takeoffs which led to me being sucked over the falls while I was standing. The biggest fear is where the board is in relation to where my body is tumbling underneath the surface. Since the falls sucked me over, I was in the wash with the board. I banged a shin, but that was no big deal.
I got sucked over a few more times before learning my lesson. Honestly, getting tumbled around is fun. I enjoy it. It's the board that freaks me out because that piece of fiberglass covered foam hurts when it comes right at you, especially the edges. Good thing nothing happened and I got my nice little tumble.
Towards the end of 2 hours, the waves really started slowing down, but there were still fun ones coming through every now and then if you were patient. The water was glassy and the only thing that would have made the whole day even better was a sunny sky. Overcast the whole time with no glimpses of blue.
No surf tomorrow. Got to take a trip!
posted by Dan at 2:10 PM
2 Comments:
"Honestly, getting tumbled around is fun."
I wish I had your attitude.
When else do you get the sensation of being tossed around like that? I used to dread it, but now I'm starting to like it. The ride is still the best part, but the tumbling is the consolation prize.
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