On a Log

The waves were good! They weren't spectacular, but fun, which is the most important part for me and for anyone, right?

I took out the 9'2, which seemed to be the perfect board for the day. There were a lot of gawkers from the shore, trying to wrestle with whether or not to suit up and get wet. I asked someone who just got back from taking a peek at conditions how the waves were. "Pretty flat. Lots of buoys out there."

Makes me feel better for taking out my big board.

I paddled out, dry hair and all.

The waves turned out to be knee to waist for most of the first hour or so. Wouldn't you know it? Some sneaker sets came rolling through and I was caught on the inside. Fun! Just kidding.

After the set was done, I got back out, caught some more waves then called it a day. I had one crash where I rolled over my board or the board rolled underneath my feet and I have a subsequent bruise on my shin from one of the fins.

Can't wait till next week.