Small, but still fun

Size got smaller than yesterday and since it wasn't big to begin with yesterday, any reduction in size is a bad thing. There were still waves to be had and I got my share of them. The water was a bit warmer, not by lots again, it didn't make my teeth chatter like it did yesterday. The breeze also started a bit earlier, too.

I surfed the 7'4 slug and it was fun, though a bit tougher. There's been so much repairs done on that board, that it feels a bit sluggish, too. It's not as fast as it should be. The lack of any rocker helps in catching waves, but the weight from all the repairs sort of bogs this board down when I'm paddling. I went right again the majority of the time. Went left a handful of times, but didn't feel right.

The thing I improved on today was flipping the board around at the end of the wave to bail out. Now, I just to complete the kick out and start paddling right away. I still just sort of pop off the board.

Who's writing these surf reports?

The surf report said, 1-3 weak and small. Really? I took a look, it looked small, but there was shape. Every now and then a chest high wave would come peaking through. I caught a bunch of waves that had some push. It was a blast! I went right, I went left (seldomly even though that was the majority of the waves these days).

Water temp was a bit chilly and being in trunks started my teeth clattering during some of the lulls. It was a good day for beginners, but even for people who were looking for some stoke, there was plenty to be had.

I caught a bunch of waves, then on the paddle out, I got in the way of one of the locals ladies. Three times to be exact. She was cool about it after I apologized. She said it happens to her all the time. I might have been chilly in board shorts and a vest, but she was just in her bathing suit. She was keeping it real.

If tomorrow is anything like today, I'll have just as much fun.

Fun and Not As Fun

Saturday was pretty good. My biggest regret was not waking up earlier and getting out to catch more waves when it was this good. Then again, I am dead tired from commuting to the new job. It's over an hour one way.

The water has gotten cold... brrr... but still doable in a vest and board shorts. The waves were coming in long lulls, but when they came, there were corners to be had. I caught a bunch of waves on my 7'11, all going right. I've been so focused on going right that I don't do lefts too well any more. Lefts used to be all I did and it came naturally. Probably cause I used to bail on waves a lot more and falling backward is sort of what going lefts felt like to me. So, I got used to going left and did pretty well. I figured going front side is the way most people go, so I worked on going rights.

Most everyone was going left this weekend, with me being the rebel, waiting for a good right to come along. I was catching them pretty consistently and staying high on the wave so I can practice roller coasting as well. The next thing I have to work on are harder cut backs. I don't change direction too well. If I go right, I go right. I might twitch a little to the left to start the roller coaster effect, but then go right again. A couple of times, it would have been nice to cut back a little harder to pick up a little more speed to get past a section, but what can you do? It's just part of the learning and development process.

At one point, I was literally surrounded by people that I couldn't catch anything without either running someone over in the inside section or bump boards with someone to the right or left of me. They trapped me! Good thing a set came in to get rid of them. The usual drift was turned on going north. And since most waves were lefts, the people who caught waves and were too lazy to fight the current usually ended up 50 yards to the north of me, leaving me to pick off the rights that came in every now and then.

Sunday was pretty walled up. Same board, but I started taking lefts. Felt weird. I think I caught one right the whole day and it was a short ride before the whole wave closed shop. Still had fun and the crowd wasn't as thick as on Saturday. Then again, if I have to deal with a few more people, but have better waves, I think I'm willing to run some people over, good vibes be damned!

Can't surf next weekend. Making a road trip with some friends for a bachelor party. Little surprise where that road trip is going to be. At least there won't be much of a swell in the water later on this week, so I probably won't be missing much.

Bath Water

The water was so warm on Saturday. It was unbelievable! The only bad part was that there was a bit too much wind to really enjoy the warm waters. I don't ever remember a day in the water that was warmer than it was on Saturday. The reports say that the temps have since dropped.

I did catch a few fun waves, but the crowds are getting crazy. I see the regulars out there, but who are all these strangers. Surfing is one of those weird sports where you want to share the stoke when you're out of the water, but get selfish once you're in the water. That's how I am. I try to get as many people interested and then give them dirty looks when they encroach upon my 100-200 yards of beach break. Yeah, I'm filled with contradictions.

On Friday night, Quiksilver had a screening for Dane Reynolds' new surf film at their HQ. It was an outdoor screening and pretty much anyone who knew about it was invited. They offered In N Out burgers and water for free. There was some alcohol and I suspect the beer was free, too. They had a concert right after that by Sparta. It was pretty cool that they had something like that. Dane Reynolds rips, by the way. It was the first I had heard of him. I don't know much about the surfers who dominate the sport other than Kelly Slater, Rob Machado, Andy Irons and a few others.

My wish, warm waters, nice peaks peeling, and no one around. It's more of a fantasy.