Monday, June 18, 2007

Lazy Sunday

My friend decided that he finally wanted to try surfing. I'm not an expert, but I can push people into waves and at least tell him the etiquette.

It was the perfect day for a beginner since the waves were about 3 feet max with lulls in between sets. I was able to paddle out with my hair nice and dry. I brought out the 9'2 knowing it was going to be small.

My friend was on his used 9 footer. It was mine at some point, but nothing I really surfed on. I bought it to loan out to others since everyone wanted to come out surfing and it gave me a way to still surf my own board and let others to join in the fun. It's a 9 footer, but on the thin side. The few times I've surfed on it, I didn't really like it all that much. It's not really agile, but at the same time, waves can knock it over. So, no maneuverability with no stability.

He was able to paddle out easily. He then spent the next 20 minutes trying to sit on the board. One of those things you take for granted once you get the hang of it. He just kept falling over. I caught a few waves while he was trying to learn how to sit on that board. I traded boards with him so that he could be on something more solid. I caught a few waves on his board and didn't like any rides.

After awhile, I told him to try to catch a wave to the inside and decided to push him into waves. It's not my favorite way of teaching people how to surf, but I guess people have to learn what it feels like when the board starts to glide. Did this for about 20 minutes before telling him to paddle back out again to try on his own.

Waves got a little bigger later on. The water was warming up and it was nice and clean. The skies were overcast with a slight breeze.

Can't wait till next week.

No surfing on Saturday because a.) there was no surf to be had and b.) I went to Bodies the Exhibition to see a bunch of Chinese cadavers.

Sunday, June 03, 2007

Murky Waters

The dolphins were out in full force, but the water had a distinct brownish/reddish tinge to it. I'm not a big fan of brownish/reddish water. Reminds me too much of red tide and my sinus infections.

The skies were overcast the whole time and I expect it to be this way for the next month with June gloom. The winds were calm and the water was warm, despite the funky color to it. Most of the waves were lefts, though, if you're patient, a few rights would peek through. The drift was pretty strong and deceiving. You didn't know you were drifting until you took the time to look back towards shore and you're one tower farther north. I'm sure some people were swept towards Long Beach.

I caught more waves today than yesterday. My arms are still recovering from their first session in months. Unlike yesterday, my pop ups were smoother. I only took one left and just waited around for the rights. It was better to go right anyway (besides being regular footed) because then I wouldn't have to paddle as much to keep up with the drift.

Crowds were moderate even though there were more cars in the lot. It's the onset of summer.

Saturday, June 02, 2007

One Paddle Short

It's been a good two months since I've surfed. Biggest fear was not having the stamina or the strength to catch waves. Well, I didn't catch a few, but that's about it. One great right, the other two were just blah. I have to go out again tomorrow to get the strength back.

The water is getting warmer, the skies are overcast, and the wind was mellow. Water has been clear all year because we haven't had that many rainy days. The crowd is still fairly light considering Memorial Day has already come and gone. People are probably still waiting for sunny days before they go to the beach, which is completely fine by me.

Anyway, is anyone else annoyed by "Surf's Up?" Every time I see that movie, I just see the crowds getting thicker. Why oh why did they make a cute surf movie with penguins? I remember that after Blue Crush came out, the beaches and breaks got thicker. You'd think there would be more girls out in the line up, but you'd be wrong. Ah well, everywhere is getting crowded. Is there such a thing as a suburban beach break to escape the dense crowds?
Clerks II - July 21, 2006