Sunday, September 28, 2008

Lefts!

That's all that was on tap today. I drove out to the beach yesterday, but crashed out in my car. By the time I got back up, it was high tide and shut down. How do you like that? Get up early enough only to be too tired and crash out at the finish line and did not even get to enjoy the prize for waking up that early.

It was foggy both days and high tide was early in the morning, around 9am on Saturday and 10 something today. The water temp has dropped 5 degrees and most everyone is in full suits again. I donned my sub $100 suit wondering what a $300 would feel like. Sometimes I'm tempted to get one, but then just bag that idea.

Since the waves were mostly lefts, I had to practice backside. I used to like going backside more, but now it's the opposite. I still like pig dogging going left.

Good thing about wetsuit season is the thinning of the crowds. Only the regulars show up at that point.

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Continuing the teaching

The waves looked about waist high when we got there, but got bigger as the tide filled in. It was a bit too big for him today and there was a heavy northerly drift.

He couldn't catch much and definitely didn't have as much fun this week as he did last week.

When it was my turn to go out, I didn't have much stamina left after my daily workouts. Oh well. There's always tomorrow.

The best thing about today was that it was calm and glassy. The overcast skies sucked though. Water is still warm, but it felt colder because of the gray stuff in the sky.

Monday, September 01, 2008

Helping out newbies

My cousin wanted to learn how to surf or at least experience it. He chose a good day for it, since the Surfline report said it was only going to be 1 - 3 ft. and it was pretty much just that.

I brought out my big board for him and his girlfriend to try out. A 9'2 board helps to catch waves for people not used to paddling for waves.

Have to say, my cousin did pretty well for his first time out. He didn't try to stand up on any waves, but was able to paddle into the waves by himself. All I did was turn him around once he got onto the board.

When he was done, I paddled out on my little board and sure enough, the waves died down. I still caught some fun waves, a really fun right (which I almost screwed up) and a zippy left. On that left, I tried to get covered up, but it didn't quite work out that way. I just stayed very, very close to the curl, in a pig dog position without getting the bonus payoff I wanted, but I still got a great ride out of it.

I've been working out these days and it's been helping out with the paddling and catching waves. Am totally enjoying the benefits of the hard work in the water.
Clerks II - July 21, 2006