The Art of Going Straight

The day trip was postponed due to lack fo swell. It would have been a waste of time and gas to drive down to San Diego to find nothing ot surf or very little to surf.

We stayed at the home break, except we went over to where the crowds were, again. I'm not that crazy about it. I'll surf there on weekdays, if I get a chance, but I think that's the last weekend I surf there, ever. It was just crowded. There's also a well-known surf school there, so there will no doubt be some buoys to slalom through on the inside section.

I got wet, caught a few waves, and just went straight. That was all I could do, not because of other people, but because the wave didn't permit me much else. I'm not a great rail-to-rail surfer to begin with, so riding small waves on a 7' is a bit tough for me. I'm used to long, lazy lines you do on a funboard or longboard. I just don't have the twist and snaps like a true shortboarder does. Ah well, just something else to practice. A bigger swell would help in that development.

Water was warmer than the air temperature. The slight breeze and long sets didn't help. Water was at least clear, but the skies were overcast. Swell was broken up, so the waist to chest high forecast earlier in the week were not meant to be.

Does everyone have preferences on their wax? I'm more of a Sticky Bumps person. Like the smell and the way it applies itself onto the board. I know some people like Sex Wax, but it wasn't for me. I need wax with a clear purpose. Sex Wax can be top coat or base coat depending on the temp rating or something like that? It's too confusing. Need something simple like Sticky Bumps. Basecoat is for basecoat. Then you have Warm, Cool, Cold wax with different temperature ranges. Makes it nice and easy. Can't even imagine wax for anything warmer than 73 degrees. Friend said that wax was as hard as chalk.

Next week, day trip, maybe?

Seriously, what's with the crowds?

It wasn't pipeline this whole weekend, but the crowds made it feel like there was a huge swell in the water. Well, to be honest, I invaded someone else's break on Saturday and even brought along my brother. I was part of the problem, though I did used to surf there a bit more than I do now. This was back when I was still in school and could go there during the week.

The water was warm and toasty and for the first time, the sun was out early. There wasn't a cloud in the sky. There was a slight breeze, but the waves were fun. This break is less than half a mile from my normal stomping grounds. The waves break a bit better and is probably why it is so crowded. I also noticed more girls surfing this break, too.

I caught a few waves, but I just tried not to join in on the party waves.

Sunday was a bit more consistent, but the waves weren't as nice. They were mostly close outs and you could see that the swell was coming from the north or northwest. Sort of unusual for the summer, isn't it?

Back at the home break, water was super clear (it isn't crystal, but clear for So. Cal), but the clouds rolled back in. Crowds were thinner, too, though there were still quite a few people in the water.

Paddling around, I noticed a bunch of cold spots. Weird how that works.

The worst part of today, the bright green stuff that was floating around. I think it's algae or obliterated seaweed, but can't say for sure. It was the color of a green highlighter. Quite luminescent, yet highly disturbing. I stayed away as much as I could.

The waves were mostly rights, but close outs were the order for the day.

Next week, road trip!

Why is there a traffic jam?

The waves were tiny out there this weekend, but you wouldn't be able to tell that from the crowd in the water. You would think it was pipeline out there.

The skies were overcast both days, the waves were waist high at best, but there were still some waves to be had.

As promised, I took out the 7'0 and paddled around a lot, trying to get my strength up. I didn't have too much trouble catching waves, but still lost out to the guys with the logs (something I was sorely tempted to bring out on Sunday). I caught waves going mostly right, but started to tire out at the end and kooked a bunch of pop ups.

Sunday was smaller than Saturday. Conditions were pretty much the same. The water isn't very clear, but it was still green as opposed to red or brown. I can deal with cloudy green water for the time being.

I just want to know where the sun is in the mornings! I've been trunking it, so a little sun would be nice.

In two weeks, my first day trip in ages. Can't wait!

Haven't been out much

It's just been a bad year for decent surf. Doesn't look to be much tomorrow either. I'm heading out there with very low expectations. The surf report said 1 - 2 ft. I'll just get some paddling practice in on the 7'0.