Seriously, what's with the crowds?
It wasn't pipeline this whole weekend, but the crowds made it feel like there was a huge swell in the water. Well, to be honest, I invaded someone else's break on Saturday and even brought along my brother. I was part of the problem, though I did used to surf there a bit more than I do now. This was back when I was still in school and could go there during the week.
The water was warm and toasty and for the first time, the sun was out early. There wasn't a cloud in the sky. There was a slight breeze, but the waves were fun. This break is less than half a mile from my normal stomping grounds. The waves break a bit better and is probably why it is so crowded. I also noticed more girls surfing this break, too.
I caught a few waves, but I just tried not to join in on the party waves.
Sunday was a bit more consistent, but the waves weren't as nice. They were mostly close outs and you could see that the swell was coming from the north or northwest. Sort of unusual for the summer, isn't it?
Back at the home break, water was super clear (it isn't crystal, but clear for So. Cal), but the clouds rolled back in. Crowds were thinner, too, though there were still quite a few people in the water.
Paddling around, I noticed a bunch of cold spots. Weird how that works.
The worst part of today, the bright green stuff that was floating around. I think it's algae or obliterated seaweed, but can't say for sure. It was the color of a green highlighter. Quite luminescent, yet highly disturbing. I stayed away as much as I could.
The waves were mostly rights, but close outs were the order for the day.
Next week, road trip!
The water was warm and toasty and for the first time, the sun was out early. There wasn't a cloud in the sky. There was a slight breeze, but the waves were fun. This break is less than half a mile from my normal stomping grounds. The waves break a bit better and is probably why it is so crowded. I also noticed more girls surfing this break, too.
I caught a few waves, but I just tried not to join in on the party waves.
Sunday was a bit more consistent, but the waves weren't as nice. They were mostly close outs and you could see that the swell was coming from the north or northwest. Sort of unusual for the summer, isn't it?
Back at the home break, water was super clear (it isn't crystal, but clear for So. Cal), but the clouds rolled back in. Crowds were thinner, too, though there were still quite a few people in the water.
Paddling around, I noticed a bunch of cold spots. Weird how that works.
The worst part of today, the bright green stuff that was floating around. I think it's algae or obliterated seaweed, but can't say for sure. It was the color of a green highlighter. Quite luminescent, yet highly disturbing. I stayed away as much as I could.
The waves were mostly rights, but close outs were the order for the day.
Next week, road trip!
posted by Dan at 8:32 PM
1 Comments:
Hi,
I’ve been reading and enjoying your blog for sometime now. I love how your posts truly connect to your readership. I’m interested to have an interactive/link-up/post with you. I’ve written a book that you and your audience might enjoy and am preparing to do a virtual blog tour and would love an opportunity to participate on your blog.
However, my young adult book ‘Turtle Feet, Surfer’s Beat’ is only a small part of what I’m trying to build. The book itself revolves around a typical suburban teen girl, Penelope, from the States that is forced to go to Costa Rica with her parents for her father’s job assignment. Involuntarily, her parents sign up Penelope and her little brother to spend two weeks at the Leatherback turtle biological station (for ‘their own good’). Penelope, obviously isn’t pleased but forgives the horrid accommodations and the never ending bug brigade as she sees the turtle and instantly pledges to do all she can to help it from extinction. But hang ten, dudes! Penelope is about to get help. One lonely night, as she’s patrolling the beach for turtle poachers she stumbles and falls directly into the arms of the local surf champ. Together they dive into the world of surfing and marine preservation.
These days, we are constantly facing global problems that seem to be getting worse and worse daily. Living in Costa Rica, I’ve been inspired to take action. I started by writing this book and am now developing a community of teens, surfers, artists, scientist, and everyone else who is interested in working together to have fun while helping out.
I would love to join forces with you and your readers in a fun, interactive way. I will gladly write a post about your blog (and whatever you will like to plug:), plus a link with your blog to my website and blog, in return for a review of my book and/or small interview.
Looking forward to hearing from you soon. I can get a copy out to you ASAP.
Thanks so much,
Marina
marina@turtlefeetsurfersbeat.com
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