Monday, February 26, 2007

Back in the Saddle Again

The waves didn't look that great from the beach. However, it's a good thing for me since I had been out of the water for so long. It sucks being sick. I thought it was perhaps due to riding in a closed cylinder for 5 hours with a bunch of other people who were carrying unknown diseases. Or it might have been that I didn't wait 72 hours before surfing after a rain storm. Or it could just be that everyone has been getting sick this year. Whatever the reason, it kept me out of the water for a long while. I didn't want to go back in the water until I was 95% healthy. I still have a nagging cough, but that's about it.

The sky was partially cloudy, with the sun playing peek-a-boo all session. The water had some texture and it was chilly out there. The waves didn't look promising as the tide dropped out fast this morning (Sunday). I paddled out at the home break with my hair still defying gravity from having bed head. It took my first wave and dunking before the hair went back down. The waves didn't have much push at first, so that first wave was taken after the wave broke. Nonetheless, I was able to get over to the shoulder in a timely fashion to make due with what I had.

The next wave, a right as it's become my preferred direction these days, had a great shoulder and reformed a little on the inside before closing out completely.

I grabbed a few more waves before the onshore wind picked up. It turned choppy out there and the waves stopped coming through for a good 20 minutes. Another regular on his 9' plus board wasn't even able to catch anything, so I didn't feel bad when I wasn't catching much of anything either. He went in soon after that, frustrated with his wave count. It just seemed like he was having an off day that day.

I think it might have been that there was a dark cloud following that guy because the waves started coming through again after he left. I caught a few more waves before my arms got too tired. First thing that always goes is the paddle strength.

P.S. If I don't respond to comments right away or they're not posted right away it's because I'm lazy and I forget that I have to review comments before they're published. I've gotten a few spam comments. Man, spammers are everywhere!!!

Saturday, February 17, 2007

No swell

Yep, that's the forecast. Knee to waist with some chest at standouts. The high tide will kill things in the morning and the wind will probably kill anything after that morning window. Looks like I'll be waiting for a bigger swell to hit. Still have a nagging cough. Guess it's good there's nothing out in the water tempting me to see if my body has truly recovered.

Saturday, February 03, 2007

Sick as a dog

Well, not quite that sick, but was that sick earlier in the week, thus my absence from the surf this weekend. Yeah, 72 hours after rain is a pretty good rule, if you abide by it. I'm too dumb to do that. This is probably the 3rd time I've gotten sick from surfing the home break, not all related to stormy waters. The first two times were due to red tide, which isn't much better, if not worse.

I went out last weekend and had great rides, but I paid for it this week. Good thing for strong antibiotics, codeine, and sleep (however artificially induced it may be).

Looks like there were some fun waves out there, too. I ought to be ready next week or at the very least the weekend after.

Catch some fun ones for me.
Clerks II - July 21, 2006