Small and Racy

The waves weren't that big last Saturday, but they were bowling for sure. If you were good or lucky, you could get a mini barrel.

The water temps dropped off by more than 5 degrees, so I was out there in a wetsuit again. Felt funny at first, both because it was harder to paddle, but also because a lot of people were trunking it given that we were suffering a heat wave.

After hopping in, I was glad I did wear a wetsuit. The water was chilly and I wanted to be comfortable. I rode a bunch of lefts and the drift was on.

I didn't even bother going out on Sunday. The beach was a zoo with all the people trying to escape the heat and enjoy the last official weekend of summer. There were so many people in the water that it was dangerous. People dropping in on others and then you have to dodge all the bathers on the inside section. Not a good thing at all.

Labor day was okay. The size improved a lot and I heard it kept improving throughout the week. I didn't catch many waves at first, until I started just charging it. The water warmed up again, but there were still some cold spots. The skies were a little overcast, but nothing too bad.

I'm slowly reading a surf related book geared towards teen girls right now and should have a review up soon. Watch for it!