Chill Factor

There's a chill in the air. Autumn has come and the crowds have thinned. This month has historically been the best for me and my break. Off to a poor start though. The tide was high around 8am, at 4.56 ft, the waves were breaking right on shore.

I took out the big board because I was lazy and wanted to make sure I would catch waves regardless of the conditions.

Waves were about 2-3 ft. The water was clear and fairly warm, warmer than the air temp. There was an offshore breeze as well, which helped to hold the waves up. Yesterday was howling, so the waves were completely knocked down.

It has been more than several months since I had ridden the big board. First few waves, I went right, the board went straight. I couldn't get it to turn right away. I forgot that I had to do a bottom turn at the bottom rather than getting up and turning right away.

Too many errands forced me to come in early. I can only hope tomorrow will be better.