Wednesday, October 08, 2008


Just got back from Hawaii. Have to say, it was awesome! I only surfed one wave and it was a great one. I really want to go back to Sunset and surfed hallowed grounds. Not many people can say they've surfed there, but it's truly paradise.

The waves were waist to chest with an occasional head high set coming through. There were only 7 or 8 people out, with one stand up paddler. The picture is the break at sunset.

It's a little freaky when you consider that if you go too far to the left, you'll end up on reef. Even the bottom of where you surf, there's a bunch of rocks. Not a good place to wipe out too much. The wave seemed like it would crash heavier than it did. It was mostly mushy, but one guy did get covered.



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Clerks II - July 21, 2006