Sunday, January 13, 2008

A New Year

Still not surfing as much as I could. Saturday (yesterday), was not a good surf day because visibility was only about 30 ft. or so. The water was glassy and not too chilly. There were waves and such, but the question is whether you could see it in time to get into position. By the time you saw the wave, it was breaking on top of you. The sets were head high at least, with some plus sets rolling through every now and then.

I couldn't see the shore for most of the session and rarely saw anyone else in the water. With no landmarks, I kept paddling the wrong way in anticipation of the drift. By the time I got out of the water, I was off by a few lots and so was everyone else.

I didn't even bother suiting up and getting wet today. There was still quite a bit of size, but there weren't too many shoulders to ride. Not too many people bothered to paddle out either. They just stood on the beach by the fire pits watching the few, brave souls paddling into head high plus waves. There were some corners, if you were patient, but it was mostly a giant wall up and down the beach. No fog today, but some offshore winds were blowing early.
Clerks II - July 21, 2006