Thursday, November 22, 2007

Back from Hiatus

It's been awhile since I've written. The month of October was lost to me due to a lingering cold. 3 weeks of the sniffles kept from tempting fate by going back into the water. I've done it in the past and paid a heavy toll for it.

2 more weeks were spent out of the country, but now I'm back. I went out last Sunday for the first time in 5 weeks on my little board and it killed me. I was out of shape from being sick and not working out while out of the country. It was not a pretty sight to behold. I was lucky to make it out into the lineup. It wasn't big that day, maybe chest high at best with some shoulder high waves rolling in from time to time. The current was a bit on the heavy side.

I was tired after 30 minutes. I was done. My arms were numb from the cold, so I couldn't accurately assess, but I didn't think I would be able to go on too much further. Lots of waves came and went with me paddling like mad to get into the wave.

Finally decided to go in a little bit and catch the wave more as it was about to break rather than where the longboarders were picking them off (still instinctive for me to be farther out). A wave came out with no one else going for it, except for me. Without much paddle strength, I was catching the wave as it was just about to break, didn't think I'd make it, but popped up and away I went. Caught one more wave just like that one.

Today was day to be thankful for small things. The tide was high, 6.5 at 7:30am. Not the most ideal of conditions. I waited awhile before going out, choosing to go a little farther south than the normal break. The crowds were thick, but thinned out a little by the time I was out in the lineup. Best wave of the day was a right. It was already starting to break on the left hand side. Was able to roller coaster up and down and after the Sunday before, my arms were starting to regain their strength. Can't wait to make full use of this 4 day weekend.
Clerks II - July 21, 2006